Four nights and four days at Bulago

It is not a perpetual sunset. It lasts maybe five minutes; a very hurried romance between the orange sun and the dark Victoria. I’m in company of three lovely women but I’m not getting tlc. I’m taking photos of them in the sunset, and alternating as a silhouette model. There’s no drink for me, and this is not my holiday home.
However , they say, “Your dreams are valid.” I’m on what is the first writers’ retreat in Uganda. It is Independence day and seven of us packed our bags, headed to Gaba, and got on a boat to Bulago Island to sharpen our writing skills. Six of us are writers plus the pretty photographer.
I’m the only man on this trip. You are probably thinking I’m spoilt for choice. I am. I’m spoilt for choice on whose bags to help carry when we reach Bulago, whose chair to help move when the sun exceeds its limit, whose smile to oblige to when I hear the word “Please”. However, I have no choice when it comes to food, it is ladies first of course.

The crew
Four of us have signed up for the writing holiday and will be schooled by Jackee Batanda and Helen Nyana Kakoma. I’m surprised one of us actually writes; Josephine. She’s the only face I can recognise because it is always on TV. She’s still eloquent, chooses her words carefully but smiles more. My doll-faced neighbour, Kullein has a such a melodious voice, I try to get her talking more. I have also seen Maria’s name on social media, hearting one or two pictures of mine on Instagram; suddenly I feel more connected to these people. Hooray to social media.

Our nest
We are supposed to be at One Minute South for four days but because it is booked until Sunday. We stop over at Perch on the Nile lodge. It’s a two-storeyed orange house with stone walls on its corners perched on a cliff overlooking the lake whose waters keep changing colour; from black to green to dark blue. Everything about it is spacious. The sitting room, bedrooms and bathrooms. The winding stairway to the top is the only narrow thing about it. Even the walls are filled with either large paintings or little items such as an enlarged bottle opener, a compass and wooden art.
All the meals are being shipped from One Minute South for the two days. On the first day, we are sitting on the porch for our first session, enjoying the cool breeze but are constantly distracted by every little boat that passes by. When lunch eventually comes, we shift to the dining table which is placed directly in front of a large French window with views of the lake. A scene out of a movie I swear! On all the four days, the food never disappoints. The women promise to kidnap Chef Alex especially because of his tasty muffins.
Bulago is popular with partygoers and honeymooners. For us writers, it is teeming with minutiae that make for good inspiration. The sound of nature, the sand, the rocks and the opportunity for watching endless sunsets. It allows one to focus.

On the second evening
We take a walk with Didas, our guide, to explore parts of Bulago. Kullein and Josephine don sneakers and tights, they look like jogging partners. In fact, they make it to the top of the island without much trouble. From there, we can see Pineapple Bay, its bright coloured bandas are peeping from under the thick green curve. By the time we get there, we are in time for a golden sunset. The view is breathtaking. It is the Arabian style main building; the white sands and clean lawns and pristine pool. After taking a host of pictures, we proceed to One Minute South, where we take the evening boat with our supper back to the house.

On the third day
We say goodbye to the house that has been home and proceed to One Minute South Villa, the original destination. It is named that way because it is one minute south of the equator. It looks like a chapel with its curved windows and high ceilings. It is also like an art gallery, with wooden sculptures of life-sized objects such as a standing cat holding out a bowl, a man with folded sleeves on a bicycle and the bust of what looks like the President. No time is wasted taking selfies with “Mr President!”
There’s more to the art. Old surf boards on the walls, a one-winged angel in the compound, photos of iconic pop art like an old Bugati ad.
The sunset makes the place lovelier. Even if its short-lived, you experience the moment the sun kisses the earth as it hides away. This sight can never grow old. For the two days it seemed new every time.
On the last night, the wine is on the “house”. We have a barbecue by a large fire on the beach, telling stories and playing games until we are exhausted. It’s been an engaging and relaxing four days. We set off in the morning for the last time on the Meridian.