Nature meets culture in Kapkwai Forest

The adventurers take a minute to admire nature.

What you need to know:

Flora and fauna: The Elgon region is rich in nature’s treasures such as waterfalls, caves, flora and fauna. A walk through Kapkwai Forest brings you up-close with these features.

Located in Kapchorwa District, Kapkwai forest is home to amazing caves, waterfalls, numerous tree, bird and animal species. One’s experience of trekking in the wilderness is made exciting through the guidance of Peter Mbwebwe, Uganda Wild life Authority Elgon regional manager, and Alex Salim who has been a tourist guide at the same facility for the last 21 years.
All set with warm clothing due to the chilly temperature synonymous with the forest with a couple of colleagues, our first experience was a camp fire in the forest. Goat roasting and conversations made the evening pleasant.
Our nature walk through the forest begun the next morning at 8am when, with walking sticks in hands, we made our way through the hilly and slippery paths.

Haven of herbal remedies
About a kilometre into our walk, Salim introduces us to Prunus Africana, a tree species said to be a remedy for prostate cancer, syphilis and gonorrhea, among other diseases. He says the secret is in the leaves and roots which are boiled with a specified quantity of water and then taken in liquid form. We cross three streams on a wooden bridge, jumping over red ants and encountering a caterpillar that frightens the ladies in our entourage. Minutes later, Omara Teketeke, one of the guides, introduces us to wild bananas that he says locals use to treat measles and for deworming. The sap used is extracted from the bark of the bananas by squeezing it. Unlike the domestic bananas that are propagated by use of suckers, wild bananas grow from seeds. The bananas have features similar to the local Cavendish bananas (bogoya). We also saw Adrianna tree species which are said to strengthen the skull of toddlers.

The Chebonet falls

The Chebonet Falls are a sight to behold. The water is clear and looks like a shower.


The sounds of gushing water from the Chebonet falls can be heard long before you see them. Believed to be the biggest in the Elgon area, Chebonet falls boast for clear water. The way the water falls off the rocks makes it look like an ideal shower place. There are well laid stones that could serve as basin and chair for resting after a bath.
The falls are said to be part of the River Chebonet that drops its waters in Lake Kyoga. At the falls, one catches a glimpse of the different types of monkeys in green, grey and black colours. These are said to be permanent residents around the falls. Leaving this point is a hustle as one goes through steep stairs.

Our next destination is a chunk of vegetation recovering from the 2011 landslide that left several trees, rocks and other plants buried. Since the top layer, believed to be fertile, was covered during the landslides, the recovering vegetation is quite different from other plants around the place. The plants here are yellowish. In the same forest, you see a valley that developed as a result of volcanic eruption about 12 million years ago, according to Salim.

The adventurers take a rest on top of the Wilwil rock and admire the vegetation around it. One is bound to find herbal remedies for different ailments.

Wilwil rock
After a long stretch, we arrive at Wilwil rock that is the rest centre for tourists. Here you have a clear view of the forest including the neighbouring hills and villages. On the same rock is where you find impate shrub that used for painting nails and decorating lips. Around this rock also dog weed that is said to be a therapy for chicken pox. Teketeke says its leaves are dried, pounded and mixed with jelly and then smeared on the body of a sick person. There are many other medicinal shrubs found around the rock.

Benefits to locals
Other than being a remedy centre, a source of fuel, and a ritual site, Kapkwai forest has provided employment to locals. There are about five cooks and there is a market at the trading centre. Fred Kizza, the Conservation Manager, says Kapkwai forest is one of the major tourist attractions in the Elgon region where they register about 3000 local and international tourist every year.
However, he reveals that the number of tourists for this year has greatly reduced due to to the violence that was anticipated during elections and the rebel claims in the Elgon region following an attack on Kapchorwa Central Police Station and a Military detachment as Kizza explains.

Kapkwai cave

Inside the Kapkwai cave that is quite wide and is home to bats and birds.

About 300 metres from Wilwil rock, is the spectacular Kapkwai cave. It is an ancestral site famous for twin rituals. The traditional priest performs customs that include slaughtering a sheep and goat. The two animals are then eaten by the twin’s parents, relatives and other local leaders. However, there are some specific parts of the sheep and goat that are kept around the cave for unknown reasons. Salim and Teketeke say these rites are gradually phasing out due to increased literacy levels and religious beliefs. The twin rituals are performed when the children are three months old. Rites of female twins are different from their male counterparts.
Apart from being an ancestral site, Kapkwai cave has more than seven astonishing corners. Some are storyed. It has about five walls. The cave also has a flat ground where tourists sit for a meal, rest or converse. One can hear the echoes similar to talking in a wider empty room. It is also a home to several bats and birds.