Peponi’s charming splendour, conservative Lamu

The writer relaxes on a hammock in the hotel compound at Peponi. PHOTO BY EDGAR R. BATTE.

What you need to know:

  • Exotic beauty. Whites sands, blue waters and conservative people is what Peponi and Lamu offer, writes Edgar R. Batte.
  • Peponi is located in Shella village, two miles from Lamu Town, characterised narrow and remote settings of big stone buildings whose thick coral rag walls give the town its distinct colour and texture.
  • The town was named a World Heritage Site by United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organisation (UNESCO) as a way of one of the surviving the oldest and best-preserved Swahili settlement in East Africa.

How you are treated in a place has a lot to do with your decision to return or becoming a ‘habitual’ returnee. Lamu is the kind paradise with a slow life that nothing passes or zooms past you in excess of 10kph.
You will lose a bet if you want to find vehicles plying roads in the archipelago. You will win one if you are asked for friendly people and beautiful places. There are no airport pick-ups but local concierges offering a helping hand to your hotel, inn or cottage.

Serenity
Peponi is one of the choices for a cool off. It is small and beautiful. Its splendour has been preserved throughout the years, having been established in 1967 by the Korschen family.
Its charm is in architectural character and the people that work there. It is warm because it is personal; a welcome drink, and when you are led to your room, you will find a card bearing your names.
The cosiness of the rooms is something to marvel about. The beds are big, comfortable and will be one of your big reasons to sleep sound or enjoy each other’s company if you are on honeymoon.
At the veranda, there is a bed that serves a double purpose. You can sit on and enjoy the ocean as the waves gently brush each other in an almost musical manner, or for you to nap as the breeze of the ocean tickles your body. In the hotel compound stretch is a hammock.

Taking a walk
Hotel management will kindly share with you a lesu, a simple cotton fabric to wrap around your body. You will need to wear it when moving around Lamu, a destination with strong Islamic values. The hotel manager, in his brief had cautioned us, and we thereon read in the guide book.
“We ask that you respect our culture by dressing and behaving in a proper manner. It is very offensive to our people when tourists walk through town in swim wear and women who wear skimpy, revealing clothes show a complete disregard for our values,” the note reads, in part.

For a comfortable stay
Well, it is possible to look attractive without putting every inch (of flesh) on display. Keep in mind that Lamu is a conservative Muslim Island with an ancient heritage of peace and goodwill.
But that is caution for your comfortable stay.
We were treated to a Swahili night, which had sea foods, spicy Swahili dishes which we washed down with an array of drinks; my favourite dawa tea, and other frothy drinks.
The dress code was reflective of Swahili culture and the sitting arrangement was as such.
We were welcomed to sit on mats in a circle and dibble as we shared jokes and simple talk.

Quick notes
Peponi is located in Shella village, two miles from Lamu Town, characterised narrow and remote settings of big stone buildings whose thick coral rag walls give the town its distinct colour and texture.
The town was named a World Heritage Site by United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organisation (UNESCO) as a way of one of the surviving the oldest and best-preserved Swahili settlement in East Africa.