Pian-Upe: The new sanctuary of wildlife

Seven hours into the journey, a green signpost says it is 13 kilometres away from Pian-Upe Wildlife Reserve. The red-soiled stretch is wide enough for two lanes of cars and its architects are yet to pave it with tarmac.
The journey feels lonely with barely any human habitat until one nears the headquarters of Pian-Upe, in Northern Uganda. The golden strands of grass and a few scattered green trees stretch from every direction to the South where they meet Kadam Mountain which is 3,070m above sea level.
This not-so-famous wildlife reserve occupies 2,043 square kilometres, Mr Faustine Omara, the acting information clerk of Pian-Upe Wildlife Reserve, says.
This tourist destination gazetted in 1965 was once deadly because of Joseph Kony’s Lord’s Resistance Army operations.
Following the disarmament of Karimojongs, the reserve has been protected, after plans by Uganda Wildlife Authority (UWA) to become one of Uganda’s next top tourist destinations.
Here, different tracks are accessed through game drives at Shs20,000 for East Africans. The landscape is dotted with different species of mammals including buffaloes, zebras, elands, leopards and cheetahs. As you trail through the reserve’s freshly burnt pastures and bare acacia trees, you will cross paths with shy roan antelopes only unique to Pian-Upe throughout Uganda.
The track, yellowed by drought dust seems endless until 40 minutes later when a hike is made to Napedet hills.
“It is where we always come for sunset and we invite visitors to come with their drinks so they can sip as they watch the sunset,” he says.
The various sides of the reserve and beyond can be viewed. From the reserve’s north side is Napak District, to the west side is Kumi, Katakwi and Amuria. Southwards, is Kween district and eastwards, is Amudat.
Atop the unique Napedet cave, your eyes can freely roam over the savanna vegetation as the wild wind lashes your braids across your face. Should you visit during the dry season (December to April), you could see most of the animals including ostriches and 98 impalas recently relocated from Lake Mburo National Park.

Napedet cave
Napedet cave is not only remarkable for its volcanic creation but also mirroring a history between the Karimojong and Pokwot people. It was a hunting ground for the tribes. It is here that the wild meat was roasted. Inside, the cave still has its ancient look, with cooking stones and some pieces of wood. Parts of its sides are white, indicating the red-winged starling still visits the cave.
Some seats were curved into the rock by elders as they watched young boys roast their kill. Also inside, red marks discovered 50 years before the gazettment of the reserve, adorn the cave.
“The hunters drew some pictures of the animals like giraffes, warthogs, roan antelope and elands. I don’t know the colour of the paint used but researchers are still finding out,” Mr Omara says.
The cave is a treasure and tourists are allowed there for bush camping at Shs15,000. While on this track, if your legs can carry you up, pause the trail at Morunyange hill, situated extreme east of the reserve. Famed for its yellow vegetation, it is here that the thirst for mountainous beauty is quenched.
“First are the twin hills, far in front is the upper, lower Kadam and Kadam forest. To the West are more hills, the Napedet cave, Mount Elgon from the South and its peak. We bring clients here to view this beautiful scenery,” Mr Omara explains.

Marriage rituals
Time is made for the visit once requested. There, the Karimojong showcase their marriage rituals through drama, and their appreciation for tourism through Edonga dance. In turn, 20 per cent of the revenue collections are sent to the district.

Investment
The attractions at Pian-Upe Wildlife Reserve have prompted efforts to develop the area. Animal numbers are undergoing a boost. Business is expected to improve after translocation of giraffes from Murchison National Park. Local tourism is expected to grow.
The reserve is now ripe for investment.
“There has been a circuit from Kampala to Murchison, Kidepo, Sipi falls, Mount Elgon. But now we are marketing that circuit that you can come to Murchison, go to Kidepo, pass by Karamoja, enjoy Pian-Upe, go to Mount Elgon, Sipi falls and continue to Jinja. Of late, because of the good roads, we are beginning to see numbers moving through these circuits,” he says.
He boasts of the increasing number of investors.
“There are investment opportunities coming up. That has also brought some development within neighbouring communities. We are beginning to see structures around Namalu and Chepsikunya as they anticipate tourist numbers,” he says.
There are still investment opportunities in transport, farming and accommodation. There are just four bandas (self-contained huts) at the head office.
“In a month, I get an average of 30 tourists. The peak is January to April. Business picks again in October,” Mr Omara says.

Birding
Birding seems to be gradually picking up in Uganda. For those looking for a new corner to watch birds from, at Shs10,000 for locals, there is a chance to sight 300 species including the karamoja apalis, kingfishers, starlings and shoebill storks found in Lake Opeta, 50 kilometres away from the headquarters.
Nature walk
No tour is complete without a three-hour evening nature walk at Shs10,000 and so is a visit to the neighbouring communities. Pian-Upe serves as a cultural tourist destination with an emphasis on Karimojong community.
“Karamoja is one of those regions that has kept its culture intact. When you come here, you get to interact with the local Karimojong, how they cook, dance, carry on daily activities and this is one of the things that attracts tourists to this place,” Mr Peter Mbwebwe, warden tourism Mount Elgon Conservation Area, says.