How gomesi has evolved over the years

This is the origin of the name bodingi as it is commonly named. Gomes added a yoke and sleeves to the suuka, a traditional Ugandan dress that was made from barkcloth. The attire was named after the designer.

"The girls of Gayaza were taught how to walk majestically in the gomesi," Ssali explains. "There is a story behind every feature of the garment. For instance, the sash covers the pubis bone, and the hanging part conceals a woman’s thighs to preserve her modesty."

The gomesi became popular after Irene Drusilla Namaganda, the wife of Kabaka Daudi Chwa II wore it at his coronation in 1991. Once owned as traditional wear for Buganda, the gomesi has now morphed into a Ugandan trademark that is won by women throughout the country.

It unites women of different shapes and sizes and can be worn to events such as introductions, weddings, graduations, anniversaries, funerals, church and school visitations.

In some rural areas, older women wear the gomesi daily, opting for lightweight fabric such as silk or satin for comfort. When performing household chores, they use a simple sash or string instead of the elaborate belt used for formal occasions.

At a funeral or as you go about daily chores, the pleats that are made to the left (okutereeza) are not ideal. Instead, you pull over the foldable part of the gomesi through the back to your right to cover the sash (okukubira).

In some villages, teenage girls and women in their early 20s wear a gomesi to church to subtly signal their readiness for marriage. Among older generations, wearing a gomesi was seen as a rite of passage from girlhood to womanhood. Many believe that a mature woman who does not own or wear a gomesi may not be taken seriously.

The kikooyi

Before you wear a gomesi, you ought to have kikooyi, a thick cotton fabric worn underneath the gomesi. Kikooyi these days can be tailored as a skirt. Its fabric depends on the size of the wear and body shape. Slim women wear heavier kikooyi fabric to create the illusion of fuller hips, while curvier women opt for lighter ones to avoid looking bulky. Ssali says some women would wear the kikooyi in a style commonly known as bbula. “The name must have stemmed from the word ‘bra’ since this type is usually worn right above the breasts. This type is usually longer than the one worn inside and leaves the collar bone and back exposed.”

Even with the bbula type of dressing, he recommends a kikooyi worn inside. "Skipping the kikooyi is like forgetting to wear underwear. It exposes body features that should remain hidden when wearing a gomesi."

Draping the gomesi

A complementary loincloth commonly known as kikooyi is worn underneath for volume and structure. When wrapping the kikooyi, remember to spread the legs apart so that you are comfortable when making strides as you walk.

“Fasten the kikooyi with a string but do not make it so tight. After wearing the gomesi, put another string to hold it and thereafter put the sash,” Ssali says. The gomesi is wrapped around the body, with its long fabric creating a flowing silhouette. The sash is tied just below the bust to emphasise the waistline. The characteristic puffed sleeves should sit prominently, contributing to the regal appearance.

Tradition meets modernity

Over the years, gomesi has been transformed, blending culture with modern fashion elements. Gomesi has remained a beloved outfit, adapting to various trends that redefine its aesthetics and relevance.

According to Fiona Kyamazima, a designer at Charmacouture, traditional gomesi fabric are often heavy and intricately embroidered. Yet modern designs incorporate lighter and more breathable materials such as chiffon, organza, and crepe. These fabrics enhance comfort and maintains the garment’s elegance and versatility.

“Classic gomesi styles typically feature solid colours, with subtle embroidery. However, contemporary trends embrace bold prints, metallic hues, and colour-blocking designs, adding a modern touch to this traditional attire,” she says. Designers have introduced intricate embellishments such as beading, lace detailing, sequins, and embroidered patterns, elevating the elegance and uniqueness of the gomesi.

Traditionally, gomesi were paired with elaborate jewellery. Today, however, the trend leans toward more refined and understated accessories, allowing the outfit itself to remain the focal point. In the past, gomesi sleeves were shorter, wider, and less structured at the shoulders. Today, the sleeves are slimmer, extend slightly below the elbow, and feature a sharper, more defined shoulder shape, creating a sophisticated silhouette.

Kyamazima says, “While silk and satin were once the preferred materials for gomesi, today, sequined fabrics, embroidered lace, and stone-studded materials are in demand. Heavier fabrics with intricate embroidery are also making a comeback.”

Traditionally, the sash featured shorter tassels, but modern versions have longer, softer, and lighter tassels. Some sashes now feature embroidery or are made from the same fabric as the gomesi for a cohesive look. Previously, the sash and gomesi were often in contrasting colours, with one colour from the gomesi fabric selected to match the sash. Today, many prefer a monochrome or closely coordinated colour scheme. The sash used to be shorter, but now it matches the full length of the gomesi when tied.

She says, “Modern trends favour monochrome designs over contrasting colours. If the gomesi fabric is heavily embroidered or sequined, accessories tend to be minimal to maintain a harmonious look.”

Some modern brides and young women pair the gomesi with stylish heels, clutch purses, and make-up trends that align with contemporary beauty standards. The gomesi remains the preferred attire for traditional wedding ceremonies (kwanjula and kuhingira). Brides and guests now opt for customised versions that reflect personal style, with a touch of culture. 

Asked why people are embracing these trends, Kyamazima says, “Lighter fabrics and modified designs make the gomesi easier to wear for longer hours.” She adds that incorporating modern elements into the gomesi, makes it more appealing to young women.