Kente cloth highlights economic opportunities of cultural treasures. PHOTO/BIRD AGENCY
The recent inscription of Kente fabric, among other African items and practices into Unesco’s Representative List of Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity is a milestone in the global acknowledgment of Africa's cultural wealth and its potential as a catalyst for economic growth.
The updated global list was announced during the 19th session of the Intergovernmental Committee for the Safeguarding of the Intangible Cultural Heritage in Paraguay in early December.
According to Unesco, Kente deserves inclusion in a list composed of intangible heritage elements that concerned communities and state parties consider to require urgent measures to keep them alive because “it is a means of identity construction, reflecting the social histories of various communities.”
The list includes the practices, knowledge, and expressions that communities recognise as part of their cultural identity, along with associated objects and spaces.
Specifically, Kente is a type of silk and cotton fabric from the Akan tribe in Ghana. It was common in the ancient Ashanti Kingdom and was commonly woven by the Akans in the Ivory Coast [Côte d’Ivoire]. It is also worn by many other groups who have been influenced by Akans.
“People of all genders are involved in the production process, and the fabric promotes information transfer and exchange,” the Unesco acceptance note document explains.
Beyond its cultural roots, the preparation of Kente cloth is a masterclass in authenticity and artistry.
Cotton is hand-harvested, spun into thread with a spindle, and wound onto bobbins. The warp is then laid, setting the stage for traditional wooden looms to work their magic. Here, skilled weavers interlace vibrant, symbolic patterns with unmatched precision, transforming raw materials.
According to George-Grandy Hallow, a Ghanaian community leader, Kente is not just a garment; it is a symbol of pride and creativity for Ghanaians.
“It is now used in contemporary designs such as bags and footwear, showing its versatility and relevance in modern times.”
The cloth’s uniqueness has garnered international recognition. Buyers from countries like Togo, Nigeria, Cameroon and beyond come to Ghana to purchase Kente for resale, highlighting its widespread appeal across West Africa and globally. Tourists from the US, Canada, the UK, and other parts of the world also visit Ghana to experience and buy authentic Kente.
Ivorian designer Aristide Loua, founder of the brand Kente Gentleman, which is anchored on the art of Kente craftsmanship through unique modern designs, won the 2023 Africa Fashion Up, underscoring the enduring legacy and evolving relevance of this iconic African textile in contemporary fashion.
It’s not just Kente that earned Unesco recognition. The Wosana ritual is a rainmaking tradition from Botswana's Bakalanga community. Practiced in the Northeast and Central Districts, it involves rituals, prayer, feasts, song, and dance. The entire community participates, with roles defined by traditional leadership. Knowledge is passed down through observation and mentoring, with new practitioners sworn to secrecy about its sacred aspects.
The balafon and kolintang, wooden xylophones from West Africa (Mali, Burkina Faso, and Côte d'Ivoire), and Indonesia who share similar designs and cultural significance are also now Unesco-recognised. More than just instruments, they symbolize unity, respect, and cultural harmony, promoting dialogue and peaceful coexistence across communities.
The Intore, a traditional Rwandan dance performed by a troupe arranged in lines, symbolizes warriors on a battlefield. Through rhythmic movements, the dancers mimic a battle, leaping and wielding spears and shields to the beat of drums and horns, accompanied by songs and poems of triumph. According to Unesco, it is a “powerful expression of strength, and is central to community events, including harvest festivals and the welcoming of distinguished guests.”
Other African heritage items and practices added to the UNESCO list include the performing arts of the Twāyef people of Ghbonten, Tunisia, the Henna rituals and aesthetic practices across Algeria, Egypt, Mauritania, Morocco, Sudan, and Tunisia, and the Mangwengwe dance of Zambia.
The list also honoured traditions such as the women’s ceremonial costumes of Eastern Algeria, the Ngondo worship in Cameroon, Attiéké production skills in Côte d'Ivoire, the Epic of Samba Gueladio from Mauritania, the Durbar tradition in Kano, Nigeria, the Semsemiah crafting and playing instrument in Egypt, and the Xeer Ciise oral laws of the Somali-Issa communities in Ethiopia, Djibouti, and Somalia.
African countries hold immense potential to drive significant economic growth capitalizing on their rich cultural heritage. The global value of international trade in the export of cultural goods stands at over US$18 trillion yet Africa exports a marginal value of just about $725 million, according to the UNECA.
With the global creative industry estimated to reach $985 billion by 2025, Africa has the opportunity to harness its rich cultural heritage and creativity to drive economic growth, create jobs, and position itself as a key player in the global market.
