St Andrew Kaggwa’s statue placed strategically in front of the Uganda Martrys Catholic minor Basilica in Munyonyo.
When I first visited the Uganda Martyrs Catholic Shrine in Munyonyo, I arrived via the dusty, under-construction Makindye-Salaama road. My boda boda rider dropped me at the martyrdom site of Denis Ssebugwawo, located along the Pope Francis Link. It was a Sunday. Worshippers gathered under an open shelter opposite the entrance.
To the far right stood a statue of Ssebugwawo, portrayed holding a cross with a spear driven through his chest. According to the stone inscription below, Ssebugwawo was speared on May 25, 1886, by Kabaka Mwanga II for refusing to renounce Christianity. He was later beheaded, and his body left to scavengers. I paused, knelt on the brown-tiled floor surrounding the commemorative stone, said a short prayer, and continued my pilgrimage. A short walk led me to the Munyonyo Martyrs Bridge on the Entebbe Expressway, and then to the main shrine itself.
Sanctuary of remembrance and peace
Built in 2015 during the Jubilee Year of Mercy, the Munyonyo Basilica commemorates 50 years since the canonisation of the Uganda Martyrs in Rome in 1964. That same year, Pope Francis visited and blessed the shrine, elevating it to a global site of Catholic heritage. The shrine sits on six beautifully maintained acres. With fresh air, clean grounds, and not a trace of litter, it’s a rare oasis of calm near the city. At the entrance, clear signage guides visitors to key landmarks, each site telling a piece of the martyrs’ story. To the left, a Kampala Capital City Authority (KCCA) signboard offers a map and history lesson; this was the point where the young converts began their final journey to Namugongo. Nearby, three trees planted by parish priests stand tall, just past the canteen that doubles as an information centre.
The church and its sacred symbols
The church resembles a traditional African hut. Built on 12 pillars and crowned by a 47-metre cross, it combines cultural symbolism with spiritual power. Mass was in session during my visit, so I stayed at a respectful distance. At the church entrance stands a graphic monument of St Andrew Kaggwa, his right hand severed, body tied to a tree vividly capturing his suffering. Just beyond, another monument marks where Charles Lwanga and Mubi-Azalwa began their walk to martyrdom. For me, this symbolised the true beginning of my spiritual reflection. Stone-paved paths wind through manicured lawns. I passed the Franciscan offices, a basketball court, and signs leading to the Our Lady of Kibeho Grotto. At one site, I paused at the baptismal spot where Charles Lwanga baptised four fellow martyrs. A powerful statue shows him holding a Bible and a traditional gourd used for baptisms. I made the sign of the cross and moved on.
Grotto, gardens, and sacred calm
Descending further, I reached the Our Lady of Kibeho Grotto. A statue of the Virgin Mary stands in a cave-like enclosure. Inside the shaded shelter nearby, pilgrims prayed silently some seated on plastic chairs, others on wooden benches. I quietly bowed and moved along. Next was Mother Kevin’s Garden. Water trickled over stones into a greenish pond, crossed by a wooden bridge with black metal rails. In the middle of the water sat a life-size statue of Mother Kevin Kearney arriving at Munyonyo port in 1901. Aboard the boat were two sailors and fellow nuns, a tribute to her pioneering efforts in education and healthcare across Africa. From the bridge, I looked out toward a wetland thick with vegetation and the faint outline of Kampala in the distance. The breeze was gentle, the moment sacred.
The Divine Mercy chapel
Further along, behind the grotto, I reached the Divine Mercy Chapel. With its circular, earthy-brown perforated walls, this tranquil chapel houses the Blessed Sacrament and offers quiet space for Adoration. Surrounding the chapel, a 300-metre terraced lawn bears plaques with the words “Lord, I trust in You” in 25 languages, including Luganda and Chinese. Above lies a peaceful shelter open on two sides, embraced by trees. It’s the kind of spot where visitors can sit in silence, breathe, and reflect.
Where the journey began
Climbing back uphill, I arrived at the Muwafu tree, planted at the site where Kabaka Mwanga sentenced the Christian pages to death on May 26, 1886. Now fenced for preservation, its branches stretch wide, as if holding the weight of memory. Nearby, St. Andrew Kaggwa’s tomb sits in a modest prayer space where pilgrims leave handwritten intentions and sit quietly under the sky. A shrine for the soul and the senses Near the exit is what many call the “photo booth” area. Crowds gather here, laughing and taking photos.
A raised installation reads: “I ♥ Uganda Martyrs.” The red heart symbolising love, and the giant cross rising in the background, offer a perfect final image visually striking and emotionally resonant. As I left the grounds, vendors sold handmade crafts under white tents. I bought an African print scarf as my small way of carrying a piece of this holy place with me. Whether you are on a spiritual quest, retracing the steps of Christian martyrs, or simply seeking peace away from the chaos, Munyonyo Martyrs Shrine offers all three. It is not just a historical site. It is a living testament to faith, sacrifice, and resilience a sanctuary for the soul.
Quick note
The church resembles a traditional African hut. Built on 12 pillars and crowned by a 47-meter cross, it combines cultural symbolism with spiritual power. Mass was in session during my visit, so I stayed at a respectful distance.
