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The rise of Elimu and Denim Cartel

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Troy Elimu’s Denim Cartel is transforming discarded denim into high-fashion statements.

When Troy Elimu was starting in 2019, he was blessed enough to host Burna Boy’s ‘Meet and Greet’ as the designer of the pop-up stall under his Denim Cartel brand.  At the time, Elimu worked as a set designer, produced events, and created photo experientials. Kim Kasana Events had hired him to customise pieces for Burna Boy.He was still finding his footing. 

Today, however, Africa is his stage, showcasing unique designs made from upscale materials, and he is one of two creatives from the continent collaborating on the new Make It Yours campaign powered by Guinness Smooth. Elimu collects discarded denim clothes and repurposes them into fashionable wear. His idea is to add value and beauty to second-hand clothing and “send it back to the sender” at a higher price.

What did meeting Burna Boy mean for your career?

It kick-started my career and gave me the validation I needed as an artist. As artists, we always seek validation from people; family, friends, who tell us, “Your work is great, you are on the right track.” That hope and acknowledgement go a long way. Once Burna Boy acknowledged my work, I knew I was on the right path and since then, my aim is to grow the brand.

Did you study fashion or was it born out of passion?

 I actually studied Information Technology but after graduation, I found myself surrounded by many artists, creators, neuro-artists, and painters. I wanted to stand out because when you are in a space with so many doing the same thing, you need something that sets you apart. That is when I discovered that upcycling denim and painting jackets was not too common in the market. A few were doing it, so I thought, "Why not give it a shot?" That is how I started Denim Cartel.

The name Denim Cartel tickles the mind. How did you come up with it?

 I wanted a name that broke stereotypes. When people hear “cartel,” they think of drugs or crime. But I wanted to change that narrative. You can have a big name in clothing, art, or any creative space and still be cool. Children say, "Wow, he is a cartel but not selling drugs, he is selling denim!" So yes, you can be a cartel in any creative industry, furniture, paintings, phone cases, and still be a boss. To me, it means owning your space, being a leader, and running something big.

Where does your motivation come from?

 We are trying to protect our environment, so the conversation goes beyond clothing. It is about sustainability. Upcycling denim helps reduce the waste that affects our environment and soil. Denim, as a material, is timeless. Back in the day, miners wore it. Oil miners in the US in the ’80s used it too. For me, it is about being a sustainable brand and protecting the environment.

How do you come up with the concepts?

As a visionary, my brand’s slogan is “If God is for us.” I believe in a higher power guiding me through the creative process. Some ideas come through dreams, others as visions I try to bring to life. I collaborate with other creatives, including photographers, videographers, artists, since everyone is blessed in their own way. I always advise people to collaborate, to be in spaces where you can learn.

How do you integrate sustainability into your creativity?

 We collect wasted denim that others would throw away and repurpose it into beautiful garments. A worn-out pair of trousers can become a jacket. A tattered jacket can become a hat. That is why we are working with our President to advocate for doing away with second-hand clothing imports. We say, “Send back to sender.” We take these second-hand clothes, transform them into high-quality fashion pieces, and sell them back, only now, they are premium, and the sender would not even recognise them.

Do you believe sustainable fashion can be both accessible and inspirational?

 Absolutely. If you look at our cultural background, we have always used what we have; barkcloth. It is our heritage to reuse, rework, and repurpose. I want to take our culture and push it to the mainstream. Imagine designers using traditional materials but showcasing them at Vogue in Paris. That is what I am doing; preserving culture while elevating it.

How are you exploiting the collaborative power of the Guinness Smooth opportunity?

 Guinness Smooth has rebranded with a global campaign giving creatives freedom and visibility. It celebrates Africanacity and shines a light on fashion designers, musicians, and artists. This platform is huge, not just for me as a Ugandan, but as one of only two founders chosen across the continent. It should inspire young designers and creatives. Guinness is giving us a platform to share our stories with the world. I urge creators to reach out and collaborate. We are here to tell the African story. I cannnot wait for the world to see the collection we are working on with Guinness Smooth. We are making sure the hashtag #MakeItYours gets out there; own your craft, own your voice.

What inspired the creative direction behind your limited edition?

 The inspiration came from the patterns and textures on the new Guinness Smooth bottle. It has so many vibrant colours, which influenced the direction of the new collection. It allowed me to stretch beyond denim; to incorporate bold prints inspired by the new look of Guinness Smooth. So, when you see the collection and the bottle side by side, you will see the connection.

What has been the most exciting part of putting together this edition?

 I have worked with Guinness before, and one of my best memories was during the Black Shines Brightest campaign. That was my first runway showcase, a major milestone for the brand. It was exciting, powerful, and pushed me to grow. It is one of my proudest moments working with Guinness.

You speak passionately about Guinness Smooth. If it were a person wearing Denim Cartel, how would you describe them?

 Bold. Fearless. Ownership. If you rock Denim Cartel, you have to own it. You need to stand out, be seen among stars. As the kids say, “Steez.”

How important is community in your creative process?

 Community is everything. Collaboration is key.As an African, I live by the spirit of Ubuntu; I am because we are. Community helps me not only tell the story but tell it right. It gives me perspective from different creators and minds.