Kisingiri House, a majestic three-storey mansion that has stood as silent witness to more than a century of Uganda's evolving history. PHOTOS/ELVIS BASUDDE
The afternoon rain patters softly as I make my way down Kabaka Njagala Drive, the rhythmic drops creating a soothing backdrop to my journey to one of Uganda's most remarkable historical treasures. Between the imposing structures of Mengo Court and Bulange in Rubaga, the grand silhouette of Kisingiri House emerges; a majestic three-storey mansion that has stood as a silent witness to more than a century of Uganda's evolving history.
Built in 1896, this architectural wonder represents far more than just a family residence; it is a living museum, its walls echoing with tales of colonial intrigue, royal politics, and the remarkable legacy of one of Buganda's most influential families.
Moses Kitaka Kisingiri, the current custodian of this extraordinary legacy, shows a photograph of the original structure of Kisingiri House in Mengo, Kampala.
The very air around the mansion seems thick with history, each brick and beam telling stories that span generations. As I approach the ornate iron gate, the weight of history becomes palpable. The security personnel stationed at the entrance regard me with the serious demeanour of guardians protecting a national treasure.
Their thorough questioning - "Do you have an appointment? Who are you here to see?" - underscores the significance of this place. When I explain my mission to document one of Uganda's oldest surviving mansion, a structure that once housed three regents who ruled during King Daudi Chwa's minority, there is a palpable shift in their demeanour.
After a brief consultation, the gates swing open, inviting me into a world where time seems to have stood still for over a century. Architectural influences Stepping into the mansion's expansive compound, I am immediately struck by the seamless blend of African and European architectural influences.
The main house rises proudly before me, its three storeys a testament to the ambition and vision of its original builders. The exterior, though showing signs of careful restoration, maintains much of its original character; the sun-dried mud bricks and stone construction methods speak to a time when buildings were made to last generations. The corrugated iron roofing, now replaced from its original rusty state, still maintains the profile of the colonial-era design. It is remarkable to think that this structure has weathered 128 years of Uganda's tumultuous history without structural crack, a fact that speaks volumes about the craftsmanship of its builders.
The walls of the mansion as an informal archive, adorned with century-old photographs that capture pivotal moments in Buganda's history.
The custodians
Inside, I am greeted by Moses Kitaka Kisingiri, the current custodian of this extraordinary legacy. As the grandson of Zakariya Kizito Kisingiri, one of the three regents who governed Buganda during King Daudi Chwa's rule, Kitaka carries himself with the quiet dignity of someone deeply aware of his family's place in history.
"Most visitors who come to learn about this house are foreign tourists," he tells me with a note of regret in his voice. "Few Ugandans take the time to explore these living pieces of our history." His words hang in the air as he leads me through rooms that feel like pages from a history book come to life.
The walls of the mansion serve as an informal archive, adorned with century-old photographs that capture pivotal moments in Buganda's history. One particularly striking image shows Zakariya Kisingiri standing solemnly beside his fellow regents, Apolo Kagwa and Stanislaus Mugwanya, their expressions conveying the weight of responsibility they bore as caretakers of the kingdom. Another faded photograph captures a young King Daudi Chwa, his face betraying none of the challenges his reign would eventually face. These images are not merely decorations; they are windows into a past that shaped modern Uganda.
The man behind the myth
As Kitaka shares the story of his grandfather, the figure of Zakariya Kisingiri emerges as a complex historical personality; a man of immense influence whose life ended in tragedy. A signatory to the landmark 1900 Buganda Agreement, Kisingiri amassed extraordinary wealth and property, including vast tracts of land in Bombo where Uganda's army barracks now stands. His generous donations of land for Bulange and Mengo Court helped shape the early development of Kampala.
Yet this very influence made him dangerous in the eyes of the colonial powers. The British, growing wary of the Baganda's increasing familiarity with firearms, devised a cunning strategy; they dispatched Kisingiri to Sudan to recruit Nubian soldiers as personal guards, a move that simultaneously removed a potential threat and created a new security force loyal to colonial interests. The origin of the Kisingiri name itself is a fascinating historical footnote.
The Nubian term "Kisingiri," meaning "stinking salt," was originally a nickname given to Zakariya after his return from Sudan, referencing the foul-smelling mineral his Nubian companions carried. What began as a casual moniker evolved into a permanent family name, its original meaning overshadowed by the growing prominence of the Kisingiri lineage within the Mamba clan. This linguistic transformation mirrors the way historical events often take on meanings far beyond their original context.
The interior design of one of the rooms in Kisingiri House Mengo, Kampala
Cultural fusion
The mansion's architecture tells its own story of cultural fusion and enduring craftsmanship. Built by European masons Miller and Stanley using traditional sun-dried mud bricks and stone, the house blends European design sensibilities with local building techniques. The scale is staggering; 70 rooms spread across three floors, some as expansive as twenty by twenty square feet, with ceilings so high they seem to amplify every sound. The two grand sitting rooms, each large enough to constitute a modest house on their own, feature magnificent stone fireplaces that still gleam as if new. Upstairs, the wooden floors have been polished to a mirror-like sheen by generations of footsteps, while the panelled doors bear the patina of age that no artificial distressing could replicate.
Upgrades
Modern amenities have been carefully integrated into this historical framework; a twenty-square-foot swimming pool added during renovations, modern bathrooms with clawfoot tubs that juxtapose oddly yet harmoniously with the colonial-era architecture, and reliable electricity and running water that make the mansion livable by contemporary standards while preserving its historical character. It is a delicate balance between preservation and modernisation that the Kisingiri family has managed with remarkable sensitivity.
Perhaps one of the most charming aspects of the mansion's history involves its unusual former residents; three giant tortoises that roamed the compound for nearly half a century. Brought from Seychelles in 1945 by Stanley Kisingiri upon his return from political exile, these creatures became local celebrities in their own right.
"They were already adults when they arrived," Kitaka recalls with a smile, "and by the time they died in the early 1990s, they had lived nearly a hundred years." The tortoises became such an attraction that tourists, diplomats, and even Buganda royalty would visit specifically to see these exotic creatures, which could not be found anywhere else in East Africa at the time, not even in zoos. Their passing marked the end of an era, transforming from living curiosities into part of the mansion's rich tapestry of stories.
Political history
The mansion's role in Uganda's political history is equally fascinating. In 1904, it served as the temporary resting place for the body of Kabaka Mwanga when it was returned from exile in Seychelles before final burial. During the colonial period, the house functioned as a Gombolola (local administrative headquarters), its rooms echoing with the debates and decisions that shaped early 20th century Buganda.
The original look of Kisingiri House 100 years ago before it was given a new face
Later, it became a sanctuary for Stanley Kisingiri after his return from exile, where he lived with his wife, Princess Beatrice Mugale, sister to Kabaka Edward Muteesa II, adding yet another layer of royal connection to the mansion's history. As my visit draws to a close, Kitaka shares his family's vision for the future of this extraordinary property. "With proper care," he estimates, "Kisingiri House could stand for another 500 years."
This is not mere hyperbole; the mansion's construction was a feat of engineering that came at significant human cost (20 workers reportedly died during its building), but resulted in a structure of remarkable durability. The family's commitment to preservation is evident in every carefully maintained detail, from the gleaming wooden banisters to the original brickwork that has withstood more than a century of tropical weather.
As I take my leave, the afternoon sun breaks through the rain clouds, casting the red-brick facade in a warm, golden light. I realise that this not just a house but a monument to resilience, a testament to the enduring power of memory, and a challenge to contemporary Ugandans to engage with their history in all its complexity.
