Traditional foods vital in climate action efforts

In Bukedi Sub-region, elders have fond memories of finger millet: in the good old days, they made millet beer from the grain and served it at weddings. They mingled millet bread, made porridge, and ate these as part of their daily nutritional mix.

Millet is loved in many parts of the country, including in western Uganda where it is treasured so much by Basiita clan and there are claims that ‘they exchanged the throne for it.’ 

In wider Teso region, they enjoy ataapa (millet bread) and porridge called akouma from the grain. In the north, they enjoy it with fish. Yet this delicacy is under threat as traditional foods decline in production and consumption. 

In the press recently, elders from Bukedi Sub-region sounded a warning over disinterest by young farmers in growing finger millet: “Millet was part of our sub-region’s cultural identity…but today this once staple crop is no longer the dominant feature in our fields.”

Indeed, Uganda Bureau of Statistics (Ubos), in the annual statistical abstract, reports that production of millet plummeted by half from 142,000 tonnes in 2018 to a meagre 70,000 tonnes in 2021 but raising again in 2022. On the other hand, Uganda was importing more millet from Tanzania. 

The decline in millet production and to some extent consumption is a portrait of a dangerous trend where Ugandans are turning their backs on traditional crops that for many years had been a bedrock of nutritional value, culture, and were able to withstand erratic weather changes. Other food crops facing production decline include yams, mushrooms, sorghum, amaranth, pumpkin leaves, cowpea, and African night shade.

Losing interest in these foods means ordinary people have lost the privilege to just walk in their garden and guarantee their children’s nutrition. Several parents nowadays buy energy enhancers and supplements from shops.

According to the UN Food and Agriculture Organisation, finger millet’s value goes beyond nutrition to helping farmers adapt to climate change crisis. Millet thrives in extreme heat and minimal rainfall conditions.

On nutrition, millets, particularly finger millet, are rich in calcium, carbohydrates, proteins, and fats. They are good as energy enhancers and diabetes management.

The disappearance of these foods leaves our food systems vulnerable. With extreme weather events already hampering crop productivity and increasing pest and disease incidents, we should think quickly about how to help farmers love these crops again. Several farmers are turning away either because soil is failing, or the market prospects have become exceptionally low for these crops. Traditional media and digital media advertising has convinced us that fast food rather than slow food is the way to go.

Policymakers should prioritise these underutilised crops through supportive policies, actively collaborate with farmers and the agri-food sector to boost production of these nutrient-dense, climate-resilient crops. We need to increase investment in research and extension services. Many of these crops are indigenous to specific regions and have been sidelined in research and development efforts. Their proven resistance to drought and diseases and ability to thrive in poor soils make them invaluable assets.

Sensitisation is also key. We need to build awareness about these crops’ multiple benefits among producers and consumers and promote eating slow food over fast food. We cannot continue with business as usual if we want to build a food system that can withstand shocks while ensuring food and nutrition security. Our traditional crops, far from being relics of the past, may well be the key to our future food security, culture preservation, and social pride.

Ms Christine Arwata Alum is a research fellow at EPRC, Makerere University