A section of Kabaka’s Lake in Ndeeba, a Kampala suburb.
Upon visiting Kabaka’s Lake for the first time, one is instantly captivated by the sights and sounds of this water body, the largest man-made lake in Uganda and possibly the biggest excavated lake in Africa. The harmony between the flora, birds, and humans is remarkable.
Locally known as Akayanja ka Kabaka, this lake is a birdwatcher’s paradise, home to numerous bird species, especially egrets. For any tourist planning a birding trip to Uganda, Kabaka’s Lake is the perfect place to start.
Various species constantly flutter above or float peacefully on the water, and the lake’s surroundings offer stunning views that make it an ideal retreat for relaxation. Situated in Ndeeba, a Kampala suburb between Nabunya and Ring roads, Kabaka’s Lake is located just five kilometres from the city centre. It spans an area of two square kilometres and is 200 feet deep.
What makes this lake particularly unique is that it has no tributaries or streams feeding it. Instead, it is sustained by underground springs, keeping its water levels relatively stable during both dry and wet seasons. The lake also boasts a small, picturesque island adorned with untouched trees that rise gracefully, adding to its natural charm. It is no wonder the site attracts both local and international tourists.
Visitors can explore the island by canoe, guided by trained professionals who share fascinating stories about Buganda Kingdom’s history. Surrounding the lake are lush green gardens where people often go to sit, meditate, take photographs, enjoy fresh air, or simply listen to the soothing songs of birds.
A tarnished jewel
Despite its scenic beauty, Kabaka’s Lake is paradoxically gaining a tarnished reputation. It faces increasing threats from encroachers who have turned it into a dumping site for solid waste and harmful emissions. Nicholas Mutumba, LC chairman of Ndeeba, warns that without urgent intervention, this high-value resource risks extinction. He blames ignorance and greed for the illicit activities taking place around the lake.
These activities, such as cattle grazing, bricklaying, farming, and car washing, have significantly compromised the ecological, social, and cultural significance of Kabaka’s Lake. The chemicals and pollutants from these practices are draining into the lake, endangering its biodiversity. Former Rubaga Division Mayor, Joyce Ssebugwawo, was appalled by the pollution she witnessed during a site visit and demanded that those responsible be prosecuted.
She particularly called out Rubaga Miracle Centre Cathedral, owned by Pastor Robert Kayanja, and St Lawrence University for allegedly contaminating the lake. According to Ssebugwawo, both institutions had constructed drainage systems that emptied dirty water directly into the lake.
Adding to the woes, the lake has become a hotspot for crime. It is not unusual to encounter despondent individuals loitering around the lake, indulging in marijuana and other illicit substances. Ssebugwawo emphasised the need for nearby residents to stop dumping waste into this treasured natural site.
Hope through development
Charles Peter Mayiga, the Katikkiro of Buganda, says the kingdom has initiated plans to transform Kabaka’s Lake into a modern recreational centre. A team led by Makerere University’s architectural lecturer, Kenneth Ssemwogerere, was tasked with developing a comprehensive improvement plan, which has since been submitted to the Katikkiro.
The plan outlines strategies to block sewage and garbage from surrounding areas from entering the lake. Once rehabilitated, the man-made lake will enhance tourism in Kampala and generate revenue for the Buganda Kingdom, Mayiga says.
Mwanga’s vision
Kabaka’s Lake was constructed in 1880 by Kabaka Mwanga II, who was passionate about swimming and fishing. At the time, he would travel 11 kilometres from his Mengo Palace to Munyonyo for water activities. One day, as he returned from Munyonyo, he had an idea; to build a lake closer to home that would not only serve his recreational needs but also act as an escape route during armed conflicts.
Despite the limited technology of the era, construction began with rudimentary tools such as hoes. The 52 clans of Buganda united to carry out the Kabaka’s command, a testament to their loyalty and respect. At the time, Buganda had a population of about two million, providing ample manpower.
However, the project was gruelling, and many lives were lost due to accidents, fatigue, and hunger. Construction began between 1885 and 1888, with work starting as early as 3am and ending at 4pm each day. The entire process lasted 11 months. Kabaka Mwanga II, known for his aggressive and iron-fisted rule, did not live to see the project’s completion. He was later exiled, and his young son succeeded him.
Mwanga’s reign was marked by violent clashes with missionaries and British colonialists. He viewed foreign religions as a threat and ordered the killing of young Christian and Muslim converts, leading to the infamous Namugongo Holocaust. Many were martyred, burnt, speared, or beheaded for refusing to renounce their faith. Although he did not complete the lake, Mwanga left behind a massive excavation, which eventually filled with underground spring water to form the magnificent Kabaka’s Lake.
