Visit that altered social greetings

Pope Paul VI blesses some children during his visit to Uganda in 1969

What you need to know:

Papal visit. He was considered to be unmovable to the Ugandan standards so much so that there was a saying that Nebwokubila papa essimu, meaning “even if you telephoned the Pope.” If one said so, one has vowed to have their way on something, there was no changing stance, even if you telephoned the Pope. This week, we take you back to 1969, when Uganda became the first African country to host the Pope. Francis Anthony Lubowa was a Senior Three student at St Peter’s S.S, Nsambya. He witnessed the excitement the Pope’s visit created among not only the youth but also the adults.

“From late 1968 until late 1969, it was a period of excitement and hope for many Ugandans following the announcement that the pope would be visiting Uganda. By mid-1969, the greeting changed. People used to greet each other as Papa ajja? and the response would be Yeee Papa ajja, loosely translated as “is the Pope coming? and the other person replies: “True, the Pope is coming”. This was mostly in the Catholic dominated places.

As the days for the visit neared, almost everything came to a standstill as people took it upon themselves to tidy up their localities in anticipation of the visit. The government was doing its bit but even the locals were doing theirs. There was some skepticism about the visit as some people believed the Pope does not travel, and to, of all places, Africa and Uganda in particular, but we thank and give praise to our martyrs, without whom, I think, the Pope would not have come to Uganda.

Francis Anthony Lubowa, the narrator. Photo by Wandera Stephen


Even at school, it became a topic of discussion among the students. The belief that the Pope, who I believe is God’s representative, was coming to Uganda, meant we had got all the blessings. This united us all and we forgot the religious differences.

By the time he came in 1969, I was eager to see him in person. However, my excitement was heightened when I learnt that he was going to be staying in my village, Nsambya. He was staying at the Pope Nuncio’s residence. His stay changed the place - the road from Clock Tower to Nsambya, all the way to where he was going to stay, was tarmacked and street lights were fixed. I did not have the chance to get close to him but I made sure I stood on the roadside near the hospital and waited for him as he was being chauffeured to the residency.

On the day he came, I was at home with my parents, listening to reports from Entebbe airport on the radio. Then all of a sudden, we saw a plane being escorted by about five military planes, two on each side and one behind it. The sight of this display was amazing. By the time they announced on the radio that the Pope had touched down at Entebbe International Airport, we had already seen his plane and were sure that he had indeed come to Uganda.

Almost everything came to a halt as everybody wanted to see the Pope. But my parents were very protective of my siblings and I, barring me from going to many of the places the Pope went in fear of an anticipated stampede. But I was lucky to attend a mass he conducted at Rubaga Cathedral. It was while on the roadside that I saw him physically at close range and he waved at us. Ahhhh, what a great moment it was for me, those memories on the roadside waiting for him to pass and wave to us I will forever live with.
By the time he left Uganda, deep in my heart, I knew he was the only Pope to me because I had the chance to see him. Though other popes have visited Uganda after him, to me, he still remains the special one.”