Exploring China’s Wild West

Tourists can take time off to relax at the recreation area. PHOTOS BY MARGARET VUCHIRI.

What you need to know:

Adrenaline rush. A desert conjures images of abandoned strethches of sand dunes, but China’s desert region, Ningxia Hui opened the writer to an exceptional exciting yet frightening adventure.

When we set off for Ningxia Hui Autonomous Region in China, I was not really enthusiastic, sad, even about leaving Beijing! The flight to Ningxia is just over one hour. On the plane, I met a lovely young lady-Zhang Xiai Vu- Jenny, a university student who had come to Beijing to study English. She was surprised that we were heading to Ningxia. “It is a very small place; foreigners don’t always go there,” she said. This dampened my mood further.

Soon after arrival in Yinchuan, the provincial capital, it dawned on me that this place is extraordinary: simple yet classy, depicting ancient charm. Located in the north western part of China, Ningxia is an impressive destination that boasts a rich resource including, among others, mountains, water bodies, the famous Great Wall of China, Sand Lake and the Shapatou scenic spot.

As a loess plateau, the area is typically characterised by wind storms, with the Yellow River as arguably the region’s most prominent feature. Ningxia’s uniqueness however goes beyond physical features. The province has a rich tradition and is known for its dominant Muslim Hui ethnic population (the reason it is called Ningxia ‘Hui’ region).

Culture is unmistakably one of the most valued of the unique things that define Ningxia. Even with globalisation, the Chinese- commendably-have preserved their culture. That is why before we embarked on a tour of this region that is commonly referred to as China’s Wild West, we were first taken to Ningxia regional museum where a detailed display of the region’s artefacts from ancient times through different dynasties, completes with models of Ningxia’s mountains which are artistically assembled.

Desert adventure
Of the various places we visited in Ningxia, four stood out: Shapatou scenic spot situated in Zhongwei, Helan Ecological Park, Golden Sand Island and the Yellow River that seems so mysterious, like an invisible being watching over you. Apart from the boat ride in the ecological park, Shapatou scenic spot was one memorable destination.

This enchanting site is said to be one of the five most beautiful deserts in China and is considered the Capital of Sand, sitting magnificently on the banks of the stunning Yellow River at the Tengger Desert. Our drive from Yinchuan to Shapatou was a fascinating ride along amazing rural landscape, picturesque mountainous countryside dotted with farming communities herding mainly sheep (lamb is a preferred delicacy in this province).

Shapatou, indeed, offers everything advertised, if not more. The Ecological Protection Zone/park is vast, with rich vegetation and the scenic spot is where most fun activities take place. The obvious is, of course, sightseeing, especially the view of the Yellow River. I imagined it must be particularly dazzling at sunset and sunrise but I was not there at the right time to experience such wonder)… riding camels and quad bikes on the sand, raft rides on sheepskins that are said to be over thousands of years old and taking the nerve-wreaking desert adventure in the sand dunes.

Fright and excitement
On arrival, we had no idea (at least I didn’t) that we were going for such a frightening but memorable adventure. Even with the guide’s constant encouragement, there were moments I made promises to God. We were asked to park our cameras in bags and hold them tight. Those with heart related diseases are advised to approach this ride with caution or avoid it. The rides are high-speed- certainly not for the faint-hearted given the turbulence in those uneven dunes.

We were hurled up and down, flung left and right, taken to sudden highs and unexpected lows on the cliff-like sand dune. Our translator, Li Xiao- Rebecca, was more frightened than everyone, asking me if she should scream in English or Chinese. When the driver finally stopped- in the middle of nowhere- to allow us take photographs, we found the sand too hot to bear (The guides told us that an egg can boil in it in 20 minutes) but we were excited to be in this wilderness- a landmark whose sheer uniqueness and striking scenery is almost mystical.

Our return journey to “earth” was another adventure, sliding down steep sand- nothing life threatening, really if you control your breaks as instructed. But after watching some enthusiastic tourists roll off their sand boards, including a member of our crew, it is not farfetched to be concerned about your own safety. But we all slid down safely, and happily. It was memorable, daring, awesome, thrilling and absolutely for brave hearts!

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Top 10 Ningxia attractions
1. China Hui Culture Park:
The only theme park in China that showcases the ethnic Hui religion, traditions and culture.

2. Western Xia Mausoleum:
It is one of the largest imperial mausoleums in China with nine imperial mausoleums and 250 tombs of imperial relatives and officials.
3. Sand Lake:
A top resort lake with elegant natural landscapes and a fabulous view of the tranquil desert and the lake merging together.
4. Shapotou:
5. Nanguan Mosque:
One of the largest mosques in Ningxia. The two-story Arabic-style architecture, characterised by grand domes can accommodate over 1,300 worshipers.
6. 108 Pagodas:
Located on the slope of the Xiakou Mountain on the west bank of Yellow River; it sits in tiers on the mountain slope forming an equilateral triangle
7. Suyukou Forest Reserve:
Sits on the eastern side of the Helan Mountain and is famous for its scenery.
8. Cliff Carvings:
Known to be a carved history of ancient Chinese nomads who lived and hunted some 10,000 years ago.
9. Zhenbeipu West Studio:
Sits on the site of two ancient castle relics built during the Ming and Qing dynasties to defend against the invasion of tribes from Helan Mountain and has been used for shooting outdoor scenes for movies.
10.Ningxia Museum:
The four-story building houses a collection of 40,000 historical relics.