All about the fish in Mulungu

One of the ill winds ruffling our much cherished Lake Victoria and other lakes in Uganda, is the belated discovery that many of our estuaries are increasingly becoming nearly incapable of supporting marine life. Nevertheless, in compensation, this bad news has spawned a host of scientists and newly discovered technologies espousing fish farming determined to reverse the situation. 

Fish of all kinds provide undisputedly high grade protein, most of it considerably less fatty than most meats. Tilapia which is found in great abundance in Uganda, comes to mind as being a non-fatty fish that responds favourably to deep fat frying or sautéing and Mulungu Beach (an erroneous description) nevertheless as described by many of our kinsmen. In my view, a landing site is more appropriate, offers the perfect place to enjoy deep fried fish and best of all with prices which are incredibly reasonable. Incidentally, there is also a vibrant wholesale and retail market that features everyday so you might want to stock up on some fish for home provided you have a deep freezer.     

Previously

Prior to recently, our last visit to this iconic place was late 2019 just before the pandemic. In those days, the place was as popular as ever though disorganised, seating-wise and it was total mayhem with rickety tables, chairs and flimsy umbrellas for shelter from the sun and rain. A year or so later, there was a bout of prolonged rain which caused rise in the lake causing the makeshift seating to become washed away. The answer was to extend that area inland by several yards and build something more permanent on higher grounds. The result was the creation of a vast shed that can accommodate a couple of hundred people and is facing the lake with seating in the middle while along the sides there are different service providers for the drinks.  

As one approaches the Mulungu landing site a few minutes from the Munyonyo roundabout that veers towards Kigo, one is met by a bevy of mostly young lasses in white aprons and floppy hats. Assiduously banter would-be customers for their attention each seeking to entice them to persuade them to sit in their section from where they order fresh fish which is then deep fried. They are scores of women who fiercely fight among each other for business. Coupled with them, are the parking boys who for a fee will ensure that your vehicle is safely parked and not vandalised.

Towards the main seating section of the market, the place becomes more crowded but we took our chances and were directed to a parking spot in front of the building by none other than Lazarus, who also happens to have a concession inside and after ensuring that we were parked escorted us to a table. 

The prices

Shortly thereafter, he appeared with four pieces of fish ranging between Shs20,000 to Shs35,000 all-inclusive of deep frying and a side of fries. Despite being just the two of us, we chose the biggest and most expensive plus an extra order of fries for Shs3, 000 and then waited for 40 minutes before the fish was fried and ready to be served. As for the drinks, these were served by a woman who sauntered to our table and leaned forward advising us on the drinks on offer. Water for me and a Smirnoff Ice black for fellow trencherman was our choice and they were dispatched within no time. And then came the long wait for the fish. 

One of the best things about Mulungu is that one is always assured of being served freshly deep-fried fish since one selects the fish that they desire which in effect means that everything is made on order.   

The beauty

There is something unbeatable and ever so rewarding about eating deep fried fresh fish out of the water that can never be duplicated. Even though we had to wait for a good 40minutes or so, the results were ambrosia. Despite the absence of any type of seasoning such as garlic and ginger to mention just a few items, salt was the only epicurean additive permitted thus, allowing one to enjoy the unadulterated and sublime flesh of the fish to its fullest. For sure not everyone’s cup of tea, but then such fish is at its best done in this manner and considering that the cooks do this day in and day out they are expert craftsman and know what they are doing like the back of their hand and the results are bound to always be consistent. 

Verdict

The service is generally lackluster and the environment is slovenly, but these shortcomings are fully compensated by the wonderful fish that they serve. The fries are greasy and a total disappointment. I also saw a vendor of gonja and I believe that they also offer fried cassava. The idea of having to cough up Shs300 to pay for the answering the calls of nature was in poor taste and shameful. 

On balance, if you can put up with the helter skelter environment and you are a fan of deep fried fish, then do by all means check it out.