How to grill the perfect whole fish

A beach would be the ideal rendezvous for grilled fish, but your back yard compound or garden would also suffice nicely. However, what is not in dispute is that a glistening fish--- minutes out of the water---- cooked on a stick or grate over blazing coals cannot be beaten. Without a doubt this is a scene that is as old as the hills and mankind, and is as enjoyable as perfect Ugandan beach weather. Best of all, it serves to remind us that fish never tastes better than when grilled and served over an open fire.  

While that is the good news, the downside is that the majority of people either burn fish seemingly to a crisp, then sadly discover that the center is uncooked. As good fortune would have it, yes there is a way around this conundrum to ensure that the one always cooks a perfect fish every time.

Here in Uganda, tilapia is the ideal fish for grilling whole though if you can get your hands on such flat fish as snappers, pompano, black bass, sole, trout, porgies and grunts you would be well rewarded and delighted. Incidentally, you can also grill whole fish such as salmon albeit using the indirect method. Whichever fish you are using, always make sure that the fish is impeccably fresh. 

The eyes should be shiny and clear while the gills ought to be red and above all make sure that it is devoid of any smell. Tell the fish monger to gut and scale the fish before you take it home. When you are ready to grill, make several diagonal slashes in each side of the fish to the bone which will allow the marinade and basting mixture to penetrate the flesh, while at the same time speeding up the cooking process. 

You may wish to invest in a fish grilling basket which are relatively inexpensive with the price depending on the size. These hinged fish shaped devices keep the fish off the grate enabling you to turn the fish without having it slide off a spatula. 

The medium flame method:

1.  Preheat the grill to medium.

1. Generously oil the grate or if you are using the hinged fish grilling basket. Brush both sides of the fish with oil or melted butter. Place the fish on the hot grate directly over the heat and grill until the skin is dark and crisp and the flesh is cooked through to the bone. Allow roughly six to 15 minutes per side depending on the size of the fish. Turn the fish, using a long spatula or inverting the basket and cook the other side the same way. 
2. To test for  readiness , press the fish with your finger and when it is well done and properly cooked, the area around where you pressed will break into firm flakes. It should pull away easily from the bones.  
3. Use a long crook-handled spatula to gently slide the fish of the grate or remove the basket from the grate onto a platter.

The banana leaf method:

This method originated from Southeast Asia and is the easiest method to grill a one  to  1 ½ kg whole fish. A whole banana leaf will keep the fish from drying out and can be purchased locally from Nakasero Market where they are used for making luwombo dishes. 

I suggest that the smoked luwombo leaf be cut into a rectangle a little larger than the size of the fish that you intend to grill. Interestingly aluminum foil can also be used and the end results will be pretty much the same though minus the smoked banana leaf flavour that is unique. 

In point of fact today’s busy housewife will be forgiven for not finding the time and effort to seek out banana leaves and should in no way feel any guilt for using aluminum foil which offers the perfect substitute. In which case you would be advised to cut four  to six sheets of aluminum foil slightly larger than the fish and then stack them in layers.

1. Preheat the grill to high. Oil the grate with a fair amount of oil and place the fish on the hot grate directly over the heat and grill until the skin is dark and crisp, six to 12 minutes depending on the size of the fish. 
2. Place the banana leaf or the foil on the grate next to the fish and invert the fish and lay it on top. Cook  until the fish is cooked through to the bone. 
3. Follow steps 3 and 4 in the medium flame method for testing the fish for doneness and removing it from the grate. Discard the banana leaf or foil before serving. 

4. The indirect method: 

   This method is especially well suited for large fish such as whole Nile Perch.

5. Set up the grill for indirect cooking and preheat to medium. You don’t really need a drip pan because fish is so lean though you may wish to use one if you have one lying around.
6. Generously oil the grate of the hinged fish grilling basket and brush the fish on both sides with oil. Place the fish in the centre of the grate away from the heat and cover and grill until cooked through, 30 to 60 minutes or even more depending on the size of the fish and the intensity of the heat.
7. Follow steps 3 and 4 in the medium flame method for testing the doneness and removing the fish from the grate.