Arua and Lugbara: Uganda’s underrated city and people

I decided to redeem my brand last week and spoke myself out of foxing my friend on a planned trip to Arua. Deep down, I convinced myself that I am better than you people who bolt out of group trips at the last minute. That is how I found myself on the Nile Star buses to Arua (scared about my ka-little sickness) and took on this eight-hour journey.

Of course, I was also disappointed in my wider circle of friends. They can pop bottles, but they cannot charter me to Arua. Imagine dear reader, would it not read better that your celebrated philosopher-king used a ka plane to Arua? Or you think these are rights accorded to only Nnalongo and Ssalongo?

Luckily the moment I stepped on the bus, my sickness disappeared. And my two friends were the most caring chaps in the world. Only the road from Karuma to Pakwach, and Pakwach to Pudongo and Arua made me pray to the ancestors. This is not the kind of road you wish even on your worst enemy. But trust those bus drivers, they do such a thankless job. When all of us had switched off to the world of sleep, the man was still stable.

At around 6am, we landed in Arua City, dropped off to the hotel and by 8am, we were ready to climb Mount Wati, aka Eti, the one that connects Arua history. At the hotel, there was a remarkable individual, a resilient young man, the jovial Jovan. The people of Hunter’s Nest should just pay him his whole salary. His smile and customer service are five-star. I was tempted to pay twice for my stay.

On the journey to the base of Mount Wati, I slept off. My body took a ka-nap. We then parked at Mount Wati Primary School and officially started the hike. Thanks to the wonderful Gerard for guiding us to the top. It is on this mountain that the Lugbara story begins. Once we got to the peak, I insisted that since the peak has no name, from now on, it will be known as Ortega Peak. My Lugbara hike-mates tried to shoot down my suggestion. But I won the day with my service award. It is a two to three hour hike for the Natifs of this world who wish to investigate and expose my service award.

As we drove back to Arua city, someone suggested we complement with a hike on Arua hill. I dismissed such reckless madness. That day was full of sleep and getting a meal at Le Tsuba. Banange Lugbaras and classy things. They are a stickler for beautiful names. And they are brainy people.

Next day is when we got serious with life. We jumped on a Tuk-Tuk to Ringiri to visit a resourceful old man. And then Gerald and group later joined, they were organising a Lugbara cultural forum. The afternoon was a range of conversations about the Lugbara, their culture, the people, we even discussed matters Uganda. Oh yes, Freeboy was also part of this conversation and the articulate Sebastian. There was the sister of my Aunty Baby, the girl with itchy fingers, probably Uganda’s best designer. She can design a product in seconds. Mbu apparently their generation is only obsessed with quiz.

I was one hour old when I found out that there is a quiz every day in Kampala and on Thursdays in Arua.

I could not believe there is a generation obsessed with quiz and poetry. Anyway, me I belong to the ka-generation that is there in the middle. Tetumanyi kyetwagala! About the rest of our beautiful conversations of that day, you can convince the hawt Rosie Baby to bribe me into spilling them. The men complained about the ka-speed that girls in Kampala are taking us. Men just cannot keep up anymore. Mbu wama there is even a breakup shower?

Anyway, that night we returned to Kampala. And the bus kept its entertainment culture. It always starts with some ki-Nigerian movie on the screen. Then the music shifts to that old Ugandan band music, Mesach na Geoffrey Lutaaya. Then it progresses into the South African apartheid movement songs, then it is Oliver Mtukudzi, finally it is the Judy Boucher crew. And by this time, everyone on the bus is sleeping.

Did I also tell you that I visited the Arua public library? Well, I was looking for Dostoevsky’s books. Anti my kajanja thinks that is the quickest way to rate a library. But give Arua its flowers, itis such a vibrant city. I also came to learn that the electricity struggles are a thing of the past (almost with Nebbi and Muni substations about to activate). But, some warning, mbu of late Kifeesi has opened a branch in the city. Lots of young chaps who had gone to hustle in South Sudan returned home and have resorted to crime. It could be that city status also comes with increased crime.

That was my ka-journey until one song could not leave my head. Teba Teba, masavu atte nga gookya… Is Azawi seeing someone? Kubanga... eeh!

Twitter: ortegatalks